Double arms (1 Viewer)

lambert36

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Hello, having used most type's of scaffolding systems (haki layer etc.) I have never used double arms. I just wondered if there is a sysem of baseing out with them as I dont want to look a complete numpty on my first day if they use them. I know the procedure from the base upwards it's just I have never actually based out with them.

If there is a website or anything just to give me a heads up it would be much appreciated. Geez 10 years on the spanner I actually feel a bit of a dipstick lol.

Cheers
 
Is it double enders your talking about? Some people call them crabs aswell i think. Basically its a tranny with fittings attached to each end which fix onto the internal and external set of standards and the ledgers just slide in afterwards. These have a strange measurement, so when you put your boards on for e.g 5, there will be a 3 inch extra gap for the toe board to fit in with still a small gap showing which is stupid in my opinion.

Depending on the foundation will depend how you kick it off. If its a really flat surface e.g a pavement etc. then you just turn the double enders upside down. Personally i never put a kicker lift in. I just put the 1st lift in wear needed, if its no more than around 5ft. Then 2m lifts upwards.

When adding lifts, i usualy use a marking lat because its really fast and alot easier. All i do is get a 2m bit of anything and go down the inside standards resting the bottom of the lat on the bolt on the lift you are stood on and marking the standard at the top of the lat. Do this all the way down the independent. Then get your double enders, and put the bolt of one end on the mark you made then rap it up and level it across to the other standard and rap that. Do this all the way along and then you can just fire in the ledgers and transoms. Really fast way of working.

Just hope they are new because once the have seen a bit of weather they seize up really bad, and most of the time half the pack are buggerd lol. Hope i could help you with this.
 
Thanks for the reply, very helpful i was going to use the lat method. It was just the baseing out i was concened abut. I have used them to go round bay windows etc and used the turning them upside down method. Is it easier on a continus run to put a kicker in with running a ledger on doubles on your inside standards getting your inside legs set up correctly then putting the double arms in on every standard then your outside legs then just run your outside ledger in. If that makes sense lol
 
Thanks for the reply, very helpful i was going to use the lat method. It was just the baseing out i was concened abut. I have used them to go round bay windows etc and used the turning them upside down method. Is it easier on a continus run to put a kicker in with running a ledger on doubles on your inside standards getting your inside legs set up correctly then putting the double arms in on every standard then your outside legs then just run your outside ledger in. If that makes sense lol

Had to read it a few times there to sink in lol.
Erm,, Once uve got your 1st 20ft in or however long, then jus sleeve your ledgers off with the next 20ft and put the end standards in and measure that off the working face, (basically making your next box). Then just work backwards putting in the middle standards lifting the sag out of it. The double enders just hook on over the ledger, so they are easy enough to position depending on your standard spacing whatever that may be.
 
Lol thought you might have to read it a few times. When you put the next 20 ft of ledger in what baffles me is how to attach the double arm onto the ledger and standard at the same time as the ledge is wafting about and the standard is free standing if u get me.

Think ill change my username on this forum after this discussion lol :nuts:
 
just put 2 temperary tubes against the wall and run a ledger on singles at the height of your first lift ensuring you stand your inside standards up before doing this. then attach your double arm to the ledger put in your standard and away you go easy as that
 
Lol thought you might have to read it a few times. When you put the next 20 ft of ledger in what baffles me is how to attach the double arm onto the ledger and standard at the same time as the ledge is wafting about and the standard is free standing if u get me.

Think ill change my username on this forum after this discussion lol :nuts:

When i was saying put your next 20ft in. Once sleeved off go to the end of your 20 and put a double ender on, rap it up, then put your standard in it. The double enders hold both - Stand & Ledgers

Check this picture out, only 1 i could find but if you look carefully you can see where the standards and ledgers go http://www.darnallhire.com/products/29/index.html
 
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units

good bit of advice there lad aint used bones in ages fast as fxxk just cant be to picky with them.
 
I think the extra inch or 2 is for an inside toe board and abit of play, possibly for lashing the boards down.

There quite good to work with, saves alot of measuring.

You get what I know to be called walking sticks or hockey sticks which are transoms (fixed on only one ledger) that are long enough to fit an inside board.

I've heard off some scaffs that they don't need to be dog legged (braced) but I always used to just incase.
 
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Ready Lock- Double Arms- Bones Whatever you want to call them - been using them for years when I was on the tools and off, best bit of kit out there when you have a large T&F stock and dont want to invest in a system but want to increase your productivity.

Personally I used to base out my first bay use upside down ready lock with 8 ft ledger on the inside at ground level and then put a long un at 1st lift height to the inside and a 13 to the out to get your stagger (If on a long run of course). Then you just carry on at your first lift height with ready lock at your desired centres.

When it comes to returns a lot of lads drop the corner standard on a double, that closes the toeboard gap and makes the standard out of line with the ones in ready lock so you have a bend in the handrail which I personally used to find untidy, I used to put a ready lock on the corner to pick up the standard and ledgers (Single or pair of legs, your choice) maintaining the gap etc.

P.S. As a rule we have never put in ledger bracing when using them unless its a design job.
 
I think the extra inch or 2 is for an inside toe board and abit of play, possibly for lashing the boards down.

There quite good to work with, saves alot of measuring.

You get what I know to be called walking sticks or hockey sticks which are transoms (fixed on only one ledger) that are long enough to fit an inside board.

I've heard off some scaffs that they don't need to be dog legged (braced) but I always used to just incase.

Yeah, we call them single enders. Fix them to the outside ledger, n no need to fix them on the inside ledger but i always shot a clip on the board end trannys just incase. I dont mind the double enders but prefer to use normal 5 or 6ft tubes as trannys coz they are easier to carry n they aren't always the right length for the inside measurement.
 
I dont mind the double enders but prefer to use normal 5 or 6ft tubes as trannys coz they are easier to carry n they aren't always the right length for the inside measurement.

Yea good point, its abit of a ballache if you want to take out the inside board for renderer's or whatever and you have to go re-clipping them down, espesially if they have a ton of materials ontop of the boards above.
 
bones

pw's reply is the way we were taught,except for a swivel on your return to keep the gap, but as pw says a bone on your return is the best way, also you dont need ledger bracing that is why they were designed, unless as pw states a drawing requires it.
 
animals

I think the extra inch or 2 is for an inside toe board and abit of play, possibly for lashing the boards down.

There quite good to work with, saves alot of measuring.

You get what I know to be called walking sticks or hockey sticks which are transoms (fixed on only one ledger) that are long enough to fit an inside board.

I've heard off some scaffs that they don't need to be dog legged (braced) but I always used to just incase.
bones / anilmals , I used these with sgb back in 94 , we were told they only had to be dogged every 100ft , nice if ya working on scaff no hopping over doggs , damn awkward things to carry , :wacko:
 
Yea I know them as animals aswell lol
 
I used bones for SGB for a while fast ,but it pisses you off when only 6 in 10 work properly. we used to kick of the base using mills and the make a staff for the rest of the lifts.
I had a labourer who cut off 4 inches of my staff once. 70ft later with my lift running 4 inches i chased him round the site and ended up on my arse lol.
 
When it comes to returns a lot of lads drop the corner standard on a double, that closes the toeboard gap and makes the standard out of line with the ones in ready lock so you have a bend in the handrail which I personally used to find untidy, I used to put a ready lock on the corner to pick up the standard and ledgers (Single or pair of legs, your choice) maintaining the gap etc.

.

You can put your corner standard in on a double, you just offset it 2 and a half inches from one ledger to run in line with the double arms then the difference on the return is barely noticeable for toeboards as you have the 3 inch gap to play with anyway.


We use them as much as possible now, they are much faster once you're used to them. As long as your 1st lift is levelled properly if you're marking off you will surprise yourself how quickly the job goes up and how many metres you can get from each load.

They don't need too much maintenance either. The reason they never work on bigger firms is because the lads bomb them, never drop them, pass them down they will last for years!
 
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I concur with PW about basing out with first bay upside down.

We used to use an 8ft on a double as a temporary standard to pick up the over sail of the return, go ledger on ledger with singles and put the Readylok to the outer edge of the lift, then drop in your corner standard.

As for bracing, was that not the whole point of the design of Readylok in the first place to omit all ledger braces? Also, was it also the reason for the design of the swivel (due to no protruding transom to go double on double with your sway brace?...... there's a subject for Garry Adam's 'study group'..!??!

Readylok, animals, double-arms, dog bones, b@stards... absolutely cracking invention (with execption of Mill's double-arms with that f@@king annoying hook bolt!), but as our learned collegue pointed out, they are good until they get bombed, then they're totally useless..!!!

Cheers'
Phil.
 
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